A tasty morsel

NOV foodCreating a Common Table in Twentieth-Century Argentina: Doña Petrona, Women, and Food
Rebekah E Pite
2013, University of North Carolina Press
344 pages, paperback, plates

EVERY country has one, a domestic godess who becomes the essential point of reference for housewives and homemakers everywhere. From their kitchens in the sky, they steer the womefolk of the nation towards the best in culinary possibilities through magazine columns and radio and television programmes. In the case of Argentina, this was Doña Petrona C de Gandulfo (1896-1992) whose cookbooks garnered enormous populatrity in her homeland and fashioned the tastes and eating habits of generations of Argentinians. But as Rebekah Pite demonstrates, such figures and the role of food more generally also contributed in an important way to the parameters of gender and broader processes shaping daily life, class formation and national identity. Pite has put together a fascinating social history of twentieth-century Argentina that uses food as its lens. It would be fair to say that she serves up a tasty historical dish that leaves the reader wanting seconds.

Categories: Argentina, South America

Gavin O'Toole

I've spent much of my career in journalism and newspaper production: worked as a sub-editor and in other production roles at major UK newspapers including the Financial Times, The Guardian, The Observer and the Daily Telegraph / Sunday Telegraph. Covering business, finance, regulation, Latin American affairs and more. As a journalist and freelance writer I've contributed to many publications: work appears in outlets such as Al Jazeera, Public Finance, Global Government Forum, among others. Also an an award-winning writer of short stories and novelist. 

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